Thursday, March 17. More Rain!

St. Peter's Square.  Do the umbrellas outnumer the columns?  I think so!

My oil of oregano has failed me. I woke up with a scratchy throat that moved into definitely sore by afternoon, with swollen membranes and glands by nightfall. A Roman cold. Ugh. Nevertheless, out we went, into a day that started with a little sun, then turned into a blustery, turn-your-umbrella-inside-out-heavy-rain day.

To be inside as much as possible, we made this a St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican day. St. Peter's was first, and we headed headed right for the Cupola, ready to climb to the top. For 7€, one could take the elevator part way and climb only 320 steps. For 5€, one could forgo the elevator and walk up all 521 steps. If the cost had been the other way around, we still would have climbed the 521 steps. What would the fun be otherwise? A couple of hundred steps up and we were inside the dome, looking down at the magnificent floor of the Basilica, and the tiny little people milling about. We then took the remaining 320 steps up around the dome (still inside and no longer able to see the inside of the dome) and out onto the small lookout up at the top in the open air. The views were breath-taking. Even though cold and rainy, it was worth it. We climbed back down and toured the inside that we had seen from above. The multiple-colored marble was everywhere, as well as many statues, carvings, mosaics, alters and St. Peter's tomb. A favorite sculpture of mine since I was young was The Pieta by Michaelangelo. I finally found it in a back corner, quite beautiful and behind a bullet-proof cell of glass. How sad.

We then went into the Vatican Museum with it's ornate ceilings, marbled floors and statues. Not feeling that well, I probably did Tenar a disservice in not lingering longer with all that the Vatican has to offer, and my main goal was to get to Michaelangelo's "Creation of Adam" in the Sistine Chapel, and then away from the crowds. I had thought the chapel would be small and round with the painting covering the entire ceiling. Instead the room was rectangular, quite large, with the Creation painting, though dead center, one of many, all painted by Michaelangelo. The four years it took him to finish the ceiling now makes more sense.

After the Vatican, it was our thought to descend the stairs to the Tiber River and walk along to Trastevere, a small, quaint 'happening' neighborhood south of the Vatican and west of the river. Where two days before there was a walking path, it was now flooded! That's how much rain we've had! We took the upper route to Travestere, and it is indeed charming, with narrow cobbled streets and many restaurants and shops. We found another highly recommended geletaria and ordered what was become our usual, a small serving of two flavors. I had a pinion nut (not my favorite) and a custard called Santa Capala, I think, that was good. I'm finding that the names don't matter that much, because except for the basics, they seldom repeat from one geletaria to the next. Now that desert was over, we felt inclined to have dinner, so stopped at a local restorante, offering pasta for 5€. My recommendation: if a pasta dish costs only 5€, don't eat it. Splurge on the homemade pasta like we had the night before, or buy it fresh at the market and cook it at home.

After dinner we headed back across the river for a couple of miles and came across the Pantheon from the back. It's round! The front portico gave me the impression that the building was square or rectangular. What a surprise to see it from this angle. We stumbled on a tea shop directly in back of the Pantheon. They were out of chamomile, but recommended a tea with Roobios (?), Arancia (orange), and Eucalipto for my sore throat, as well as some spicy Ginger candy. I'll let you know how that works out. We again caught the 52 bus at San Sylvestre Square. We were safely transported home where aspirin, tea and bed awaited me.